Have you heard of anyone getting this to work with other revisions of the HDMI boards.
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I was super impressed with this project and had been wanting to try it for a while. Unfortunately, when I purchased the Awakelion HDMI switch from the parts list it's a different hardware revision. Still by ASK Technology, but version HDSW0032M1_1v0.
It does have the through holes to solder the headers for 3.3v and ground but when I probed the others it doesn't look like any go to the power and input switches. Just curious if you had heard of anyone using one of the other revisions, or do you think I could tap into the switches directly with some additional wiring from the level converter?
Ah, that's a bummer! I was unaware that they have changed the boards internally. It should be possible to wire the level converter directly to the appropriate leg of the power and switch input buttons. Provided there aren't any other major changes I would think that should work without too much trouble. You might not have as convenient of a place to mount the level converter PCB, but functionally it should be the same.
However, before you go to the trouble of mapping that all out, I would suggest just hooking two of these switches up together externally (in their original cases without modification) with a jumper HDMI cable going from the output of one to an input of another, and try a few different devices on various HDMI ports. Particularly focus on ones on the second switch in the chain, to make sure that the HDMI signal travels through both switches to your TV without causing problems. Ports RX4 and RX3 on your first pic are the most likely to have issues since they go through another chip, so be sure to test the "worst case scenario" of a device connected to RX4 on one switch with the output of that switch going to RX4 of the second switch before going to your TV. I did find a few switches and cables that wouldn't properly transmit the signal, and if they can't do it on their own then there isn't any point in wiring them up. If it doesn't work, try different cables first before swapping switch boards. Thicker cables tend to work better between switches and between the last switch and the TV.
It's a different approach, but my similar project replaces the IR receiver and sends signals over that line simulating the IR codes to trigger the various inputs. The new board might have new IR codes, not sure, but the general strategy should still work.