Btrfld

Pronounced "butter-fold"

A foldable, portable sibling of the btrfly keyboard https://github.com/SolidHal/btrfly-keyboard

More images available in "FinishedPictures" folder

Features

5 key dactyl-manuform-mini thumb cluster
flat, tented qwerty keys
6 extra mappable keys
bluetooth (optional)
folds flat for portability

PCBs

located in btrfld_pcb
the hand and thumb pcbs are mirrored so they can be used for either hand
2 x btrfld_pcb
1 x btrfld_pcb_center
2 x btrfld_pcb_thumb

Parts:

PCBs

USB C breakout basic breakout board

Used this one https://www.amazon.com/Type-C-Breakout-Serial-Connector-Converter/dp/B09KC1SMGD/
wiring the usb:

For most usages, you can just connect VBUS to your 5V input, GND to ground, and D+ and D- as you expect. You can monitor the CC and SBU pins to determine cable polarity, or send side-band data. Or leave them disconnected

A USB 2.0 USB C cable to cut up
- USB C to Micro usb can be gotten pretty cheap
46 choc v1 keyswitches, keycaps
1N4148W SOD-323F diodes
- Tips for soldering these can be found in the assembly notes section below
3mm diameter steel rod
- 2x 70.5mm
- 2x 64.7mm
- 2x 22.7 mm
- 4x 14.2
1.27mm flat ribbon cable
- 2 x 9 wire cables: 13 cm
- 2 x 6 wire cables: 9.6 cm
1x bluemicro840
- if you don't want bluetooth, you can just use a promicro instead
3d printed pieces, located in the STLs folder
- 1 copy of everything besides test_fit-UnderbodyWireGuides.stl, which we need 4 of

Print Settings:

Supports on buildplate
Detect Bridging
100% infill
0.20mm
PLA/PETG

Assembly Tips

this process is much less tedious than hand wiring. But its still annoying in places since we are trying to keep things thin.

solder the parallel wires to the hands/thumb clusters before placing the boards in the frame and soldering switches
stripping ribbon cable:
- take an xacto knife ~3mm from the end of the cable and cut a slit until you see wire, then use your fingernail to peel the cut off section away from the rest of the cable
use cut off diode/resistor legs to connect the controller to the center pcb
trim the stabs on the hinge side keys of the left/right hand bodies (switches for Q,A,Z, P, ;, / keys)
the pcbs are designed to hold the diodes "upside down" to keep things as thin as possible. Soldering these is a little hard since they like to stick to the soldering iron.
- get some fine point electronics tweezers
- put a very very small amount of solder on one of the diode pads
- place the diode, the "legs" should keep the diode from completely falling into the hole
- hold the diode down with the tweezers, and use your iron to reflow the solder. This should hold the diode down enough for you to solder the other diode leg.
- finally, add some more solder to the first pad
The UnderbodyWireGuides get super glued into the holes of the pcb. See pictures of the hand underside for details.
Once you have tested the board, use some superglue to reinforce the ribbon cable solder joints
Reference the images in the "BuildPictures/PCB" folder

Flash ZMK Firmware

Prebuilt firmware available in the Firmware directory Bridge ground + reset twice quickly to put the bluemicro840 into flashing mode Or press the "bootloader" key on the keyboard if you have already flashed the firmware before then copy the firmware onto the keyboard

cp build/zephyr/zmk.uf2 /media/<user>/NRF52BOOT/CURRENT.UF2

Build ZMK Firmware

Github Actions Build

This is broken until zmkfirmware/zmk#1499 merges, do a local build instead fork this repo, modify the files to your hearts content the github actions workflow will then build it for you https://github.com/SolidHal/zmk-config-btrfld

Local build

Grab my fork of the zmk firmware

git clone https://github.com/SolidHal/zmk.git

follow https://zmk.dev/docs/development/setup then

cd zmk
cd app
west build -b bluemicro840_v1 -- -DSHIELD=btrfld

make pristine

west build -p -b bluemicro840_v1 -- -DSHIELD=btrfld

Future development

Attach trackpoint/ball or touchpad somewhere?
latch to keep folded?
latches to retain body/thumb extensions in base?

Modifying

Edit test_fit.FCStd using FreeCad, I used version 0.19-24366 I am by no means a FreeCad expert, so I'm sure it is built suboptimally. The pcbs were created in kicad

Hand Wiring Assembly Tips

Don't hand wire this thing unless you have lots and lots of time to waste. Use the PCBs instead.

Wiring the underside of the right/left body halves is very tedious
- Make sure everything stays as flat as possible
Reference the images in "BuildPictures" and "FinishedPictures" for hints on how to layout the wires
Reference WiringGuide.png to see see the row/colomn layout
Must trim a very very slight amount off of the center pin on keyswitches over the body/thumbcluster rod
- switch above this must be rotated to give clearance for the rod locker
Body/ThumbCluster Pivot Rob
- BodyThumbRod Cap gets glued on body end of rod
- thumb cluster end of rod gets glued in place
Area around the body/baseplate hinge needs clearence, so keep all wires to the other side of the keyswitch
Reference the images in the "BuildPictures" folder

Hand Wiring Wire lengths:

Body -> Baseplate

9 wires 420mm

Thumb -> Baseplate

6 wires 240mm 70mm threaded through on the thumb side

References

Animation: BaseBodyAngle goes from 0 -> 32

firmware: https://zmk.dev/docs/development/new-shield https://zmk.dev/docs/development/setup/ https://zmk.dev/docs/troubleshooting https://github.com/SolidHal/zmk

Friction fit redesign notes: https://markforged.com/resources/blog/joinery-onyx https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-design-snap-fit-joints-3d-printing/

Enjection/btrfld