A simple, versatile acrylic case for Keebio's BDN9.
Get your own BDN9 kit at Keeb.io. Thank you as well for the original case files.
I set out to make a simple acrylic case when I first built my BDN9. It has been a great design project for me and after a lot of questions and a couple of revisions, I can finally make it available for others to make their own.
Download ready-to-upload Ponoko SVGs from Releases, but always verify the dimensions listed in the Ponoko Previewer when ordering.
The case can be built in 2 case styles, Lo-Pro and Hi-Pro. There are also 2 options for RGB Underglow lighting if you choose to use it, RGB Diffuser or Bottom.
- Lo-Pro: A low-profile case look with exposed switches. Will be cheaper and easiest to make, as it requires the fewest acrylic layers, and you could add on a Hi-Pro lip, 12mm M2 screws, and 3mm standoffs later.
- Hi-Pro: A high-profile style that uses the same base as the Lo-Pro, and adds layers on top to cover the switches. Requires longer M2 screws (12mm for 2 lip layers, 15mm for 3 lip layers) than what is included in the BDN9 kit.
- BDN9 Kit and Components: Follow the BDN9 Build Guide, but you will not be using the plates and standoffs.
- 4x Standoffs
- 9mm M2 standoffs OR 12mm Standoffs (Included in BDN9 Kit). You can use the 12mm standoffs, just add one of the Mid Layer pieces. I just find the height to be too high for my liking.
- 4x Top Screws
- 12mm M2 screws for a Hi-Pro lip with 2 layers that comes to just below the top of the switch housing.
- 15mm M2 screws for a Hi-Pro lip with 3 layers that comes to covers the keyswitch completely as well as the bottom of the keycap.
- Original 6mm M2 screws included in the kit can be used for Lo-Pro case style.
- 4x Bottom Screws
- Use original 6mm M2 screws included in the kit.
This case was designed with 3mm thick acrylic layers, as this is usually easy to find in many different colors. I recommend using Ponoko to cut the pieces. No matter your case style, you will need at the very least the pieces for the Lo-Pro style. The layers are arranged here from top to bottom in terms of stacking order. Optional plates are noted below.
Dimensions of EVERY LAYER should be 73.131mm x 73.131mm. If using Ponoko, make sure length and height are equal to 73.1mm. If not, simply edit the fields.
Add as many bdn9_H1_lip layers as you want to create the High Profile lip. I found 2 to be the sweet spot, with 3 being higher but can interfere when using some knobs and keycaps.
- MX Plate (bdn9_L1_plate): The thicker 3mm acrylic plate is needed for the sizing of the other layers with the cutout.
- PCB Plate (bdn9_L2_pcb_mid): This plate has one side thinner to allow clearance of the PCB.
- Cutout (bdn9_L3_cutout): Has space cutout for USB port (Pro Micro, Elite-C, Proton-C all work) as well as the reset switch.
- Cutout (bdn9_L4_cutout): Same as L3_cutout, and is recommended for NO RGB or Bottom RGB.
- Optional RGB Diffuser (bdn9_L4_diffuser): If instead you want an RGB Diffuser, then use L4_diffuser instead of L4_cutout.
- Bottom Plate (bdn9_L5_bottom): Bottom plate. I recommend Clear Matte (Frosted) or Clear for an RGB Bottom.
- bdn9_O_L5_full_mid: If you cannot find 9mm standoffs, you can use the 12mm standoffs included with the kit and use this piece as a spacer. It is just a single solid acrylic piece with the standoff holes cutout, or add another bdn9_L4_cutout layer.
- bdn9_H1_lip
- bdn9_H1_lip
- bdn9_L1_plate
- bdn9_L2_pcb_mid
- bdn9_L3_cutout
- bdn9_L4_diffuser (Clear Matte acrylic)
- bdn9_L5_bottom
- bdn9_L1_plate
- bdn9_L2_pcb_mid
- bdn9_L3_cutout
- bdn9_L4_cutout
- bdn9_L5_bottom (Clear Matte acrylic)
- bdn9_H1_lip
- bdn9_H1_lip
- bdn9_H1_lip
- bdn9_L1_plate
- bdn9_L2_pcb_mid
- bdn9_L3_cutout
- bdn9_L4_cutout
- bdn9_L5_bottom