A free, open set of designs for building a sound dampening enclosure for the StarTech 12U 19" Open Frame Server Rack. This design is simple, yet elegant, and allows for growth in the cooling solution depending on cooling needs.
- Allows somewhat easy removal of the enclosure from the rack frame
- The bottom is removable, then the top and sides are lifted off
- Door hinges allow doors to be fully removed
- Scalable for more fans for more cooling - just cut more hole for more fans if needed
- Cabinet locks prevent simple intrusion (idea here was 2-year-old-proof for his safety and of the equipment)
- Not all dimensions are exact. As with any wood working project, some dimensions are "improvised" or imperfect
- Not all prices are exact, and material costs are only estimates. Markets change over time, and shipping is not included in the prices
- I can't account for everything, and this set of documentation confers no warranty of any kind.
- You are encouraged to ask any questions of the design. I can't ask for you.
- Start by planning everything out. Understand the dimensions.
- Cut all panels to size (including the doors, which we'll attach later).
- Cut all end caps to size.
- Pre-drill 12 evenly spaced pilot+counter sink holes through the Top Panel and into the Side Panels, 6 on each side. (the pilot holes will exist in both the Top Panel and Side Panels, in line, but only the counter sink holes will be in the Top Panel)
- Assemble Top and Side Panels using wood glue and screws - 6x 2-1/2 inch screws on each side.
- Attach end caps (1/4 inch thick) to sides of the Top Panel using wood glue and finishing nails.
- Attach end caps (3/4 inch thick) to ends of the Side Panels and Top Panel using wood glue and finishing nails.
- Using left over material (plywood or the end cap material), cut two blocks that measure 2 inch by 4 7/8 inch. (these will be used to keep the top from sliding front to back on the metal rack frame)
- Center the blocks on the underside of the Top Panel, and butting up against the end cap.
- Pre-drill 2 pilot holes per block (the pilot holes will exist in both the Top Panel and centering blocks, in line, but only the counter sink holes will be in the centering blocks)
- Attach the two centering blocks using wood glue and screws (1-1/4 inch screws)
At this point, assuming you're happy with the outcome and the glue is dry, lift and lower the top and sides onto the rack frame. If it doesn't quite fit on the centering blocks, make adjustments by 1/16th of an inch.
- Attach end caps (1/4" thick) to Bottom End Panels using wood glue and finishing nails.
- Center the Bottom Panel on the Side Panels.
- Pre-drill 3 evenly spaced pilot+counter sink holes through each Side Panel, and into the Bottom Panel. (the pilot holes will exist in both the Bottom Panel and Side Panels, in line, but only the counter sink holes will be in the Side Panels)
- Attach Bottom Panel using screws only (see first bullet point of the features).
- Drill two evenly spaced holes using the 2 inch hole saw into one of the Bottom End Panels, preferably close to where the metal frame will sit "on top" of the Bottom End Panel at the rear of the rack/enclosure. These will be cabling holes.
- Drill 2 evenly spaced pilot+counter sink holes through each Side Panel, and into the front Bottom End Panel. (the pilot holes will exist in both the front Bottom End Panel and Side Panels, in line, but only the counter sink holes will be in the Side Panels)
- Using the jigsaw, cut two trapezoidal sections out of the panel, where the caster wheels rotate.
- Attach front Bottom End Panel using screws only (see first bullet point of the features).
- Drill 2 evenly spaced pilot+counter sink holes through each Side Panel, and into the rear Bottom End Panel. (the pilot holes will exist in both the rear Bottom End Panel and Side Panels, in line, but only the counter sink holes will be in the Side Panels)
- Using the jigsaw, cut two trapezoidal sections out of the panel, where the caster wheels rotate.
- Attach rear Bottom End Panel using screws only (see first bullet point of the features).
- Attach hinges to doors and hinge mounts to the end caps.
- Drill hole in door for cabinet lock and attach lock to the door.
- Attach door hinges to the hinge mounts, and test the doors' swing and fit.
- Test lock functionality.
- Test all fans with the controller to verify speed control, and temperature probe functionality.
- Using the provided stencil, plan and trace each fan insert hole and the controller insert hole. Be sure to mark the screw holes too. (painter's tape helped keep the stencil still while marking)
- Using a small drill bit, drill short pilot holes (no counter sink) for the inserts' wood screws.
- For the two sets of intake fans, reverse the direction such that the flow blows inwards.
- Using the spade/paddle bit, drill a hole near a corner of each traced insert hole.
- Using the jigsaw, carefully cut along the traced lines until all 5 rectangular holes are complete.
- Test the fit of each fan set and the controller. If satisfactory, run all supplied wood screws in to attach the fans and controller to the enclosure.
- Carefully wire each fan and probe, taking into consideration proper cable management.
Use however you want. I ended up lining the Side Panels and Doors so far, and the noise was reduced by half. I also used some of the foam to fill in the gaps in the plywood and rack on the bottom (some sound dampening and dust+bug protection), and between the front two posts and rest of the enclosure (to keep cold air in the front).
- Find some "more rigid" foam, like what separates items in packages (not styrofoam but the kind that still somewhat compresses and can be cut) and use it to provide some padding between the rack frame posts and the Side Panels. This prevents the enclosure from shifting side to side or "twisting".
- The user reviews on the sound dampening foam that mention the adhesive backing does not hold are true in some cases. Keep a bottle of multi-surface super glue handy.
- The rear Bottom End Panel has enough room for a conventional consumer power strip, if you would like to mount one there, instead of a normal rack mount strip (or as an additional).
- ALL. THE. VELCRO.
fan-and-controller-placements.md - Where I placed the fans and controller
materials-parts-list.md - A list of materials and parts needed to complete the enclosure
panel-dimensions.md - (rough) Dimensions of each panel in the enclosure cube
tools-used.md - The tools I used to complete the build
images - Some images of the build and what the rack looks like now