/Cam-Forces

Calculate forces generated by various rock climbing protection (SLCDs, Nuts TriCams).

Primary LanguageHTML

Forces Generated by SLCD's, Nuts, Tricams

This project was prompted by a question from Ryan Jenks of HowNot2:

"How much outward force does a cam put on the rock? Does it change if it's over cammed vs tipped out? What happens when you pull over an edge? How different is it vs a nut vs a tricam? How much force does a cam hook put on the rock? In general, this is interesting, if you come across a fragile flake, then it matters.

After 3 years, we are finally getting to test the outward force of gear. While we make final adjustments to our latest jib/adapter for our pull tester, let's get a baseline on what to expect. How much force does math say we should get on the rock if you pull down 2kn on a cam, nut, tri-cam? Assume parallel sides for cams and tricams. Assume a 20 degree angle for a nut.

Let's start this discussion here in Discord because we have another important step designing the experiment after we set the baseline of what we hypothesize."

Progress So Far

  • Jupyter Lab File: Camming_Forces.ipynb computes a baseline expected force for a basic SLCD. The file is also available in HTML and PDF formats.

  • References: A REFERENCE.md file has been created to hold links and other materials that folks have already shared.