Dustbike 2019

Project to put some custom lights on my crappy playa bike.

Key Parts

Part	Manufacturer	Manufacturer Part Number	Qty	Link
Controller	ST Micro	Nucleo-L432KC	1	Digi-Key
Color strips	Adafruit	"Dotstar" APA102 strip, 60 LEDs/m, 1m	2	Adafruit
Flood lights	"Lylla"	"Cree U5 LED"...	1	Amazon
Tail light	"Partsam" lol	"2x4.5 Inch Motorcycle LED"...	1	Amazon
Battery	ChromeBattery	zb-12-15 (15 Ah)	1	Walmart
Enclosure - Main Box	Bud Industries	NBF-32016	1	Amazon
Enclosure - Control Panel	"Awclub"	6.2"x3.5"x1.8"	1	Amazon
Passthrough connectors (RJ45)	"Anmbest"	"Shielded RJ45 Waterproof Cat5/Cat5c"...	6	Amazon
Solar charger	Renogy	16W	1	Amazon
Hall sensor	ZF Electronics	MP101301	1	Allied Electronics
5V Regulator	Bel Fuse	VRAE-10E1A0G	1	Digi-Key
NFETs (Used for Floods, Taillight, Panel voltmeter)	ST Micro	STP40NF03L	3	Digi-Key
SSRs (Used to tie charger ground to system ground)	Toshiba Semiconductor	TLP3544(F)	1	Digi-Key
Panel Voltmeter	"DROK" hahaha	"DC 2.7-30V Voltage Tester Meter 5V 9V 12V 24V"	1	Amazon

Component Prep

Nucleo Board

SB9 is populated from the factory with a 0 Ohm jumper, which allows the ST-Link target to control the nRST line on the controller. I cleared this so that the unpowered ST-Link wouldn't be hanging on the nRST line. This may have been unnecessary.

Important Pinouts I Probably Shouldn't Forget

I mostly used T568B color/pin number mapping except for the color strips, where I didn't because I was young and foolish.

Note that the RJ45 passthrough connectors look like they're pinned straight through, but they do actually cross over internally so pin 1 maps to pin 1.

Color Strips

Pin	Color	Signal
1	Orange	5V
2	Orange/White	5V
3	Green/White	5V
4	Green	MOSI
5	Blue/White	SCLK
6	Blue	GND
7	Brown/White	GND
8	Brown	GND

Floods

Pin	Color	Signal
1	Orange	12V
2	Orange/White	12V
3	Green/White	12V
4	Blue	12V
5	Blue/White	Return
6	Green	Return
7	Brown/White	Return
8	Brown	Return

Control Panel

Pin	Color	Signal
1	Orange/White	Switch 1 (Charge SSR and Panel Meter enable)
2	Orange	Switch 2 (Color mode enable)
3	Green/White	Switch 3 (Was wig-wag mode, removed when I found out lights had toggling modes and also burned up one of my NFETs)
4	Blue	Switch 4 (Floods enable)
5	Blue/White	Switch 5 (Taillight enable)
6	Green	Switch 6 (Patrol mode enable)
7	Brown/White	Pushbutton Switch 7 (was going to be meter enable, then I just tied that to switch 1 because I wanted to use serial debug and collided on pins)
8	Brown	Ground

Speed Sensor

Pin	Color	Signal
1	Orange/White	5V
2	Orange	NC
3	Green/White	NC
4	Blue	NC
5	Blue/White	NC
6	Green	Signal (open drain)
7	Brown/White	NC
8	Brown	Ground

Pinouts inside the box

Controller I/O Terminal Block - Left Side

Pin	Signal
1	SCLK
2	SCLK
3	SCLK
4	MOSI
5	MOSI
6	MOSI
7	SW2 Enable (Taillight Enable output)
8	SSR1 Enable (Charge / Panel Meter enable)
9	SW1 Enable (Left Flood enable, til I blew it up and put them together on SW3)
10	SW3 Enable (Right Flood enable, then both)

Controller I/O Terminal Block - Right Side

Pin	Signal
1	Speed In
2	CTRL1
3	CTRL2
4	CTRL3
5	CTRL4
6	CTRL5
7	CTRL6
8	CTRL7
9	SW4 Enable (Meter Enable, til I moved it I think)
10	GND

Images

Operating in Color mode with floods on: YouTube

Operating in Patrol mode with taillight on: YouTube

Issues

Description	Workaround	Fix	Done?
Hall sensor doesn't work with the one MSR bike magnet Tip Top bikes in Oakland Stocks	Use a couple refrigerator magnets I had.	Source a sensor that detects North poles
Motorcycle flood lights have three modes and cycle through them on each power cycle (bright, dim, flash rapidly).	It's a feature.	Mod the lights or source some others
Light pattern speed does not appear to match vehicle speed very well, if at all.	Whatever, it works.	Going to need some test fixturing or at least a test rider.
Light pattern speed does not update smoothly, especially at low speed.	Whatever, it works.	Add more magnets, or an encoder!
5V Supply gets quite hot, even at very low load.	Didn't break, doesn't matter.	Design a real board and replace reg.
Internal harnessing is a nightmare.	Whatever, it works.	Design a real board. Harness from inside of sealed passthrough connectors straight to board - no terminal blocks.	Yes, see Dustbike Core
Using same connector for 12V floods and 5V APA102 strings, as well as control panel and hall sensor. Swapping cables is more likely to be catastrophic than not.	Painted connectors and matching cables matching colors with some of Meb's nail polish. Still did it wrong once and had to replace stuff.	Use different connectors (something compatible with APA102 strings out of the box would be even nicer).

ersatzavian/dustbike19