- STL files should be named with a unique descriptive name
- if there is a recommended/required color for that part, prefix the filename with the color in square brackets ([black], [a], etc.)
- ususally there is a prime and accent color, without prefix it's meant to be the primary color and you can use the shortcode [a] for the accent color
- if a part needs to be printed multiple times suffix the filename with a "x" and then the amount of parts needed.
- Main_Body.stl
- [a]_Hinge_x2.stl
- [red]_Screw_x8.stl
- no overhangs over 45 degrees
- no supports (unless they are absolutely needed, and if that's the case they must be built in to the part)
- 0.4mm chamfer on surfaces that touch the print bed (and no fillets on the build surface--breaks the 45 degree overhang rule)
- general "nice" aesthetic
- Take note of part orientation to make sure the part is strong in the directions it needs to be.
- Countersunk holes "overhanging" the print surface should have a chamfer on them or other method like that to prevent issues
- Think about minimum perimeters/shells--try to avoid really thin features
- Design with common screws/hardware in mind. Ie, stick with M3x6,8,12,16,20,25,30,35,40, M5x10,16,30,40 when possible (for V1/V2)
- Counterbore bridging for holes [1]
- always orient STLs such that no reorientation is necessary (stricter that just thinking about it in design)
- consider fillets for all edges that are sharp and might be touched by people, 0.5-1.0 tends to be good
- loose joints generally oversized by 0.3-0.4mm diameter for loose fit or 0.1mm for press fit. 3.4mm for M3 hardware, 5.4mm for M5 hardware
- Loose fit screw holes - Make the hole 0.4mm bigger
- Thread into the plastic - Make the hole 0.1mm smaller
- Make the feature .2mm bigger. A 10mm diameter bearing would be 10.2mm [3]
- Heatset holes should be 4.7mm in diameter
- blind heatset holes should be 5mm deep
- add a 0.4 chamfer to all heatsets entrance edges on build surface (helps with insertion)